An end to diffusion lines?

It was reported in many publications, Dolce & Gabbana is closing its diffusion line D&G. All D&G brand licenses will either be dismissed or absorbed by the main brand.

Maybe that puts an end to diffusion lines?

As a reminder, most diffusion lines were started in the late 80s to early 90s. Designers were aiming at the next lower price level, called bridge. Nevermind that the category bridge was an industry mind game already.
Donna Karan launched DKNY, Calvin Klein launched cK, Escada bought Laurel and the Apriori and over the years Ralph Lauren launched more sub-labels then a normal shopper can memorize.

Of course, no one had the ad money to explain the differences to the consumer. Diffusion lines were supposed to sell by itself.

And what did the consumer think? Calvin Klein and cK? Same thing.

And how about Ralph Lauren, Polo Ralph Lauren, Chaps by Ralph Lauren, Rugby by Ralph Lauren, RL, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Giorgio Armani, Armani, A|X Armani Exchange, Emporio Armani, are you still with me?

And with a growing number of licenses, the pricing got even more confusing. Watches from cK at US$100 and from Calvin Klein at US$600? Without any visible difference? Guess how well the expensive ones sold.

At one point, when DKNY had eaten almost all of the Donna Karan business, they even launched D, an attempt to cut prices lower yet.

Maybe we will get back to clearly positioned brands. It leads to higher brand value.

Superga startet in den USA mit den Olsen Zwillingen

Die Italienische Sportschuhmarke Superga unternimmt einen interessanten Anlauf auf dem Amerikanischen Markt.

Nicht nur vergibt Superga eine Lizenz an Steve Madden, zudem kommen auch noch die Olsen Zwillinge als “Creative Director” an Board und mit denen soll im Co-Branding eine Kollektion erstellt und vertrieben werden.

Irgendjemand hat da wenig Vertrauen in die eigene Marke.

Lizenz Karussell im Brillenmarkt

Das Licensemag berichtet hier, dass Nine West eine Markenlizenz für Brillen an Marchon vergeben hat.

Die Lizenz umfasst korrektive Brillen und soll über den klassischen Fachhandel vertrieben werden.

Was Licensemag nicht berichtet, Nine West hatte bereits eine Lizenz für Brillen vergeben und zwar an die Safilo Group. Wieder einmal dreht sich also das Markenlizenz-Karussell im hart umkämpften und mit Lizenzen überbesetzten Brillenmarkt.

Superga goes redundant

The Italian sportshoe brand Superga thinks one license and one brand isn’t good enough.

As reported here by Businessweek, Steve Madden signed a license with Superga for the North American market.

Shoe maker Steven Madden Ltd. will team up with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen as the exclusive licensee for Superga, an Italian sneaker brand, in North America.

Financial terms were undisclosed.

The Olsen twins have been named creative directors for the brand. They’ll develop all creative and marketing surrounding the line and oversee retail lines of distribution. The shoes will be sold at department stores and specialty footwear stores.

In the spring, the Olsens will offer a co-branded line of Superga shoes with their own fashion line, called The Row.

A brand license, plus the Olsen twins, plus a co-branded line? It seems, someone has not enough confidence in the power of their own brand. Let’s hope the consumer understands that mish-mash. 

Nine West moves Eyewear License

The Licensemag reports here, that Nine West signed a brand license with Marchon.

The Jones Group inked an exclusive agreement with Marchon Eyewear to create and distribute ophthalmic eyewear frames and prescription-ready sunglasses for the Nine West brand. The Nine West ophthalmic eyewear collection will be marketed and sold globally in upscale optical chains, specialty retailers and eye-care professionals beginning in January. 

What they failed to report, the license has been with Safilo before. This is yet another shift of a brand license within the highly competitive eyewear industry.